Jugging

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Template:Short description Script error: No such module "about". Jugging is the process of stewing whole animals, mainly game or fish, for an extended period in a tightly covered container such as a casserole or an earthenware jug. In France a similar stew of a game animal (historically thickened with the animal's blood) is known as a Script error: No such module "Lang"..[1][2][3]

Jugged hare

File:Three ways with hare. Hannah Glasse The Art of Cookery 1737 p. 50 detail.jpg
Three ways with hare: recipes in Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747), p.50

Jugged hare (a similar stew is known as Script error: No such module "Lang". in France), a common dish involving jugging, is a whole hare, cut into pieces, marinated and cooked with red wine and juniper berries in a tall jug that stands in a pan of water. It is traditionally served with the hare's blood, or the blood is added at the end of the cooking process, and port wine.[4][5][6][7]

File:First catch your hare by John Doyle nowatermarks.png
In 1843 John Doyle attributed "First catch your hare" to Mrs Glasse

Jugged hare is described in the influential 18th-century cookbook The Art of Cookery, by Hannah Glasse.[8] Beginning in the nineteenth century, Glasse has been widely credited with having started the recipe with the words "First, catch your hare".[5] This attribution is apocryphal. Her actual directions are, "Take your Hare when it is cas'd, and make a pudding ..." To 'case' means to take off the skin [not "to catch"]. Both the Oxford English Dictionary and The Dictionary of National Biography discuss the attribution.[9]

However, having a freshly caught, or shot, hare enables one to obtain its blood. A freshly killed hare is prepared for jugging by removing its entrails and then hanging it in a larder by its hind legs, which causes the blood to accumulate in the chest cavity. One method of preserving the blood after draining it from the hare (since the hare itself is usually hung for a week or more) is to mix it with red wine vinegar in order to prevent it coagulating, and then to store it in a freezer.[10][11]

Many other British cookbooks from before the middle of the 20th century have recipes for jugged hare. Merle and Reitch[12] have this to say about jugged hare, for example:

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In 2006, a survey of 2,021 people for the television channel UKTV Food found that only 1.6% of the people aged under 25 recognized jugged hare by name. 7 out of 10 of those people stated that they would refuse to eat jugged hare if it were served at the house of a friend or a relative.[13][14]

Civet de lapin

Civet de lapin (rabbit stew) is an alternative to civet de lièvre. It is considered a speciality of the cuisine of Martinique.[15][16]

Jugged kippers

Another jugged dish, also traditional in the United Kingdom, is jugged kippers, which is kippers (with the heads and tails removed) in a covered jug, cooked in boiling water. Recipe books recommend jugging kippers as one way of avoiding the strong smell that kippers have.[17][18]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.James T. Ehler. "jugged". Kitchen & Cooking Tips. FoodReference.com.
  2. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."French–English food glossary". At Home With Patricia Wells. Patricia Wells, Ltd. Archived from the original on 2006-12-13.
  3. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Barbara Santich (1996). Looking for Flavour. Wakefield Press. pp. 118–119. ISBN 9781862543850.
  4. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Tom Jaine. "A Glossary of Cookery and Other Terms". The History of English Cookery. Prospect Books. Archived from the original on 2003-07-08.
  5. ^ a b Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Chips are down for Britain's old culinary classics". The Guardian. 2006-07-25. p. 6.
  6. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Jugged". The Great British Kitchen. The British Food Trust.
  7. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Recipes: Game: Jugged Hare". The Great British Kitchen. The British Food Trust.
  8. ^ Glasse, Hannah. The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy. London, 1747; p. 50
  9. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Mayes, Ian (3 June 2000). "Splitting Hares". The Guardian. Retrieved 24 March 2015.
  10. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Bill Deans. "HARES, Brown, Blue or White". Archived from the original on 2007-09-30.
  11. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.John and Sally Seymour (September–October 1976). "Farming for Self-Sufficiency Independence on a 5-acre (20,000 m2) Farm". Mother Earth News (41). Archived from the original on 2006-09-01.
  12. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Gibbons Merle and John Reitch (1842). The domestic dictionary and housekeeper's manual. London: William Strange. p. 113.
  13. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Bygone food quiz reveals pig ignorance among young". The Scotsman. 2006-07-24.{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link)
  14. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Martin Hickman (2006-07-24). "Young diners lose taste for traditional British dishes". The Independent. Archived from the original on 2007-02-18.
  15. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.John Walsh (2003-04-18). "It's a bunny old world". The Independent. Archived from the original on 2006-05-28.
  16. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Martinique: What to Eat". Insight Guides.
  17. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.The Fat Badgers. "Food: Jugged Kippers". Fat Badgers Guide to Quality Inns, Pubs, Restaurants and Hotels in the United Kingdom.
  18. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Anthony Telford (2004). The Kitchen Hand: A Miscellany of Kitchen Wisdom. Allen & Unwin. p. 120. ISBN 1-86508-890-0.

Further reading

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