Buckram
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| Buckram | |
|---|---|
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| Material type | Cloth |
Buckram is a stiff cotton, or occasionally, linen or horse-hair cloth with a plain, usually loose, weave, produced in various weights similar to muslin and other plain-weave fabrics.[1] The fabric is soaked in a sizing agent such as wheat-starch paste, glue (such as PVA glue), or pyroxylin (gelatinized nitrocellulose, developed around 1910), then dried. When rewetted or warmed, it can be shaped to create durable firm fabric for book covers, hats, and elements of clothing.[2]
Etymology
In the Middle Ages, "bokeram" simply designated a fine cotton cloth. The etymology of the term remains uncertain; the Oxford English Dictionary considers the commonly mentioned derivation from the name of the city of Bokhara unlikely.[3][4]
Use in bookbinding
Several of buckram's qualities make it attractive for bookbinding. Highly durable, buckram does not allow the bookbinder's paste to seep through and discolor or stain the book's front and back covers.[5]
Pyroxylin-impregnated buckram is often favored due to its resistance to water, insects, fungi, and general wear. This is especially important for library binding, where many people will be repeatedly handling the same books.[6] However, pyroxylin fabrics are less chemically stable than starch-filled fabrics and can be affected by extreme temperatures.[7]
Use in millinery
Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a hat block, and left to dry into a hard shape.[8] Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats),[9] single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as theatrical buckram or crown buckram).[10]
References
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- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Marks, Stephen S., ed. (1959). ""Buckram"; "Library buckram"; "Muslin". Fairchild's dictionary of textiles. New York: Fairchild Publications. pp. 87, 320, 368.
- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Arnold, Janet. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. p. 151.
- ^ An example of the "Bokhara" etymology:
- Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.King, Donald (1987). "Embroidery and Textiles". In Jonathan Alexander; Paul Binski (eds.). Age of Chivalry: Art in Plantagenet England, 1200–1400. London: Royal Academy of Arts; Weidenfeld & Nicolson. pp. 157–161. ISBN 9780297791904. OCLC 1223895666. p. 157:
Fine cotton cloth known as bokeram (derived from Bokhara; the cloth was originally imported from Asia) was used for garments, linings and banners.
- Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.King, Donald (1987). "Embroidery and Textiles". In Jonathan Alexander; Paul Binski (eds.). Age of Chivalry: Art in Plantagenet England, 1200–1400. London: Royal Academy of Arts; Weidenfeld & Nicolson. pp. 157–161. ISBN 9780297791904. OCLC 1223895666. p. 157:
- ^ Template:Oed
- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Thomson, Paul (8 November 2013). "Introduction to Bookbinding Supplies and Materials". iBookBinding - Bookbinding Tutorials & Resources. Retrieved 8 October 2019.
- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Bookbinding and the Conservation of Books - A Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology". cool.culturalheritage.org. Archived from the original on 2020-07-24. Retrieved 2020-10-17.
- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Books and Bound Items - Preservation Self-Assessment Program". psap.library.illinois.edu. Retrieved 2023-12-06.
- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Hart, Eric (2013). The Prop Building Guidebook: For Theatre, Film, and TV. Taylor & Francis. p. 292. ISBN 9780240821382.
- ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."The Copyist". The Illustrated Milliner. 14 (7). The Illustrated Milliner Company: 68. July 1913. Retrieved 8 October 2019.
- ^ Template:Cite newsletter
External links
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- US patent US1712991A, Method for preparing buckram
