Nuptse

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Nuptse
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Nuptse or Nubtse[a] is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, a part of the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies Template:Cvt to the southwest of Mount Everest. The main peak, Nuptse I with an elevation of Template:Cvt, was first climbed on May 16, 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi.[1][2][3] After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse became an objective of mountaineers again, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

Name

Nuptse is Tibetan for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the Lhotse-Nuptse massif.[4]

Geography

Nuptse lies Template:Cvt WSW of Mount Everest. Due to the structure of the Everest Massif, Nuptse blocks Everest's view for much of the surrounding region. It is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard south col route on Everest. However, it is not a particularly independent peak: its topographic prominence is only 319 m (1,047 ft). Hence, it is not ranked in the list of highest mountains.[citation needed]

The main Nuptse ridge contains 7 summits:

Summit Elevation Latitude (N) Longitude (E)
Nuptse I Template:Cvt 27°57′59″ 86°53′24″
Nuptse II Template:Cvt 27°57′52″ 86°53′34″
Nuptse Shar I Template:Cvt 27°57′41″ 86°53′47″
Nuptse Nup I Template:Cvt 27°58′05″ 86°53′08″
Nuptse Shar II Template:Cvt 27°57′39″ 86°53′55″
Nuptse Nup II Template:Cvt 27°58′06″ 86°52′54″
Nuptse Shar III Template:Cvt 27°57′30″ 86°54′42″

Template:Himalaya annotated imagemap

Climbing

File:Everest nubtse.jpg
Nuptse on the right, Everest to the left
File:Nuptse-fromChukhungRi.jpg
Nuptse from Chukhung Ri

Nuptse was first climbed in 1961 and subsequently climbed a few times.

  • 1961 – First ascent of the North Ridge on May 16 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley. Tashi was the first human to set foot on the summit, while Davis waited to take photographs. Davis followed closely after Tashi.[5] On May 17, other members of the same expedition reached the summit: Chris Bonington, Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa.[1][3]
  • 1975 – The Joint British Army-Royal Nepalese Army Nuptse Expedition in an attempt to be the second team atop Nuptse ended in tragedy with the loss of four climbers to falls: Major G.F. Owens and Captain R.A. Summerton, Lieutenant D.A.J. Brister and Rifleman Pasang Tamang.[6][7]
  • 1979 – Ascent of the North Ridge on October 19 by Georges Bettembourg, Doug Scott, Alan Rouse and Brian Hall.[8][9]
  • 1984 – First ascent of the West Ridge by Yvan Estienne, Rémi Roux, et al., an expedition led by Raymond Renaud.[10]
  • 1994 – First ascent of the south pillar of Nuptse Shar I by Frenchmen Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine, who were stopped by the wind on the summit ridge 300 m (980 ft) from the summit. The climb was nominated for a Piolets d'Or.[11]
  • 1997 – Nuptse – Nup II (7742 m) – on top: Tomaž Humar, Janez Jeglič
  • 2008 – Opening of the south face by Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz; nominated for the Piolets d'Or in 2008.
  • 2017 – Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux open a route on the south face.[12]
  • 2023 – On 8 May, a team of 3 climbers from the US and 6 Sherpas were the first to reach the summit in the year. It is reported that at least 65 climbers in 6 teams have obtained permits for Nuptse.[13]

In culture

In 1987, Sally McCoy, Director of Equipment at The North Face, an American outdoor recreation products company, was part of the Snowbird Everest Expedition. This inspired The North Face to create outerwear named after the region's peaks and glaciers. In 1992, the company introduced the Nuptse Jacket. It featured a novel baffle construction to reduce shifting of the down and to increase warmth.[14] The Nuptse jacket in bright colours was popular in New York City in the 1990s, especially among school kids and rappers.[15] The Nuptse line of outdoors clothing has expanded to over 60 items in 2023.[16]

See also

  • Ueli Steck, Swiss alpinist who died falling from Nuptse

Notes and references

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  1. ^ Sherpa: Page Template:Bo-textonly/fonts.css has no content.ནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse, Chinese: Script error: No such module "Lang".
  1. ^ a b Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Walmsley, Joe (1961). "Nuptse" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Alpine Club: 209–234. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
  2. ^ Template:Cite aaj
  3. ^ a b Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Bonington, Chris (1962). "Nuptse" (PDF). Journal. XIII (3). The Climber's Club: 306–312. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
  4. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Nuptse". summitpost.org. 2003. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  5. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Davis, D. (1961). "Nuptse: Part II Summit". The Himalayan Journal. 23 (1).
  6. ^ Template:Cite aaj
  7. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."The Joint British Army Mountaineering Association and Royal Nepalese Army Expedition". Mount Everest Foundation. Retrieved 27 January 2025.
  8. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Blanchard, B. (1 June 2023). "A Mountain Apart". Alpinist Magazine. Summer 2023 (82): 50–75.
  9. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Hall, Brian (21 July 2022). "Epic Descent From Nuptse". Climbing. Retrieved 13 June 2024.
  10. ^ Template:Cite aaj
  11. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."Piolets d'Or – 1992–2021". pioletsdor.net. Retrieved 13 June 2024.
  12. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Franz, D. (2017). "French team completes new route on Nuptse's south face". Alpinist.com Newswire. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  13. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."HG climbers make season's first summit on Nuptse". The Himalayan Times. 8 May 2023. Retrieved 5 November 2023.
  14. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Kollat, M. (30 November 2022). "The North Face relaunches the exact replica of its most famous jacket". T3. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  15. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content.Takanashi, L. (31 October 2018). "How The North Face Took Over '90s New York". The Cut. Retrieved 5 November 2023.
  16. ^ Page Module:Citation/CS1/styles.css has no content."The North Face Nuptse Collection of Jackets, Vests, and More". The North Face. 2023. Retrieved 4 November 2023.

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